Fender is being redesigned and will be unavailable for a spell.
BODY | |
---|---|
Tank in white: coating, cap, petcocks & mounting | $735 |
Tail in white: seat, taillight & license plate | $735 |
Orange & black body parts sanded, polished & graphics applied free (learn more) | $250 |
Left side cover, rounded style, black | $132 |
Mud guard, replaces stock fender dirt deflector | $74 |
Chrome license plate frame | $15 |
SXR & SXR/USA GRAPHICS | |
SXR Graphics - 750, 883, 1000, 1200 Order individually or as a kit |
|
Tank sides | $89 |
Tail graphics | $29 |
Fork guard | $29 |
SXR kit (tank & tail) | $147 |
SXR/USA Evel-like Graphics Order individually or as a kit |
|
Tank sides | $89 |
No. 1 for tail deck/tank top | $25 |
Tail graphics | $39 |
Fork guards | $39 |
SXR/USA Evel-like graphics kit | $212 |
FRONT END | |
Fork brace | N/A* |
Fork guards, mounts to brace, white, orange or black | $139 |
Front fender, mount to brace, white, orange or black | N/A* |
Hidden halogen light/AMA # plate, tree mount | $245 |
REAR WHEEL CONVERSION KITS | |
Kit A: 9 spoke wheel, ¾” axle, 1.980 or 2.3” OD pilot | $325 |
Kit B: 13 spoke cast wheel, 1” axle, 2.205 OD pilot | $345 |
Kit D: 13 spoke wheel, ¾” axle, 2.208” OD pilot | $345 |
Kit E: 13 spoke wheel, 3/4" axle, 1.975" OD pilot | $345 |
Machine cast wheels for 7/16” screws (kits C, D, E) | $65 + shipping |
Machine 13 spoke wheels for 7/16" screws and bore center (kit B, 1" axle) | $122 + shipping |
CONTROL & SUSPENSION | |
1” Dirt track bars w/ dimples, Rise - 4”, Pullback - 10” Width - 34” | $95 |
Hammer head grips, old style, huge hit | $25 |
15” Progressive shocks, no sleeves, black 60/130 springs | N/A |
STAINLESS EXHAUST SYSTEMS | |
SuperTrapp 2-into-2 stainless for 1985-03 Sportsters | No longer manufactured |
SuperTrapp 2004-2010 Sportsters w/ O2 sensors | No longer manufactured |
Cone 2-into-1 stainless for 1985-03 Sportsters | $770 |
Cone 2-into-1 stainless for 2004-13 Sportsters w/ O2 sensor | $825 |
* Brace and front fender are being redesigned.
You folks in Canada have weird provincial representatives, government regulators and/or Premier. Your fuel is so toxic that it eats my new anti-ethanol tank resin. To make your tank live with your ethanol fuel, I will have to coat my tanks the old way with brushed on Caswell coating which is stronger than a Russian tank. I’m sorry to have to do this to you. My new resin has not been a problem in the states. After your government and Premier fall (not long –some time in 2023) I hope you are able to get regular ethanol or non-ethanol.
UPS and USPS
Visa. Master, Discover. Minnesotans add 7.5.% tax. Cards charged only on day of shipment.
15% restocking charge, subject to condition. Shipping charges not compensated.
Specs and prices may change without prior notification.
Products sold by PLR are copyrighted. Some parts are not DOT approved for street use and are for racing only.
Why is that piker Phil Little charging $125 for an orange color upgrade and why does he charge me $125 to sand my parts?
My fiberglass guy normally shoots white parts. White gelcoat is the cheapest resin and it hides flaws well. When I ask him to shoot orange he has to take time purging the lines on his spray equipment, dial in the orange and re-purge the lines to shoot white again. This takes time he wants to be compensated for. Reasonable.
When parts come out of the mold the surface is always orange-peely. And scratches appear as the part is dragged out of the mold. Scratches and dips in the mold are imported to the part. Oh for sure you can take the parts as-is and do the work yourself. (You sand with 2000 w/d and polish with 3M's Finessette II.) I spend a whole bunch of time sanding and polishing. I often do it 2 and 3 times to get rid of all the blems. Sometimes foreign specs are in the part. I remove them and fill the divot with orange gelcoat. (It would be impossible for you to do this.) When I’m done, the surface is beautiful. This step too takes time.
Alistair Renvoize from Penrith, England built the Sportster street tracker I should have built but I did mine on the cheap. Al said...
"Ever since my youth I had dreamt of one day buying an XR750. They are too expensive so I started exploring the possibility of converting a Sportster into a replica. That is when I stumbled across Phil's site on the internet. The products and ethos felt right. I ordered the tank, seat unit, 19" front to rear wheel conversion kit, etc."
Several years ago I altered the shape of the SXR tank. I did so to create more volume than the old tank which was a gallon plus. The new tank is 2" wider and ¼" taller and holds 2.4 gallons.
I think the new tank is better looking. It has a better proportionality in width/length. By contrast, the old one was too skinny.
Your 883 gets about 75 mpg and the range with the new tank is about 187 miles. The 1200 is thirsty. Its mpg is 45 which is a range of 112 miles with the new tank.
You can contrast the new Gen II tail in this photo with the old molded in taillight in Gen I tail. The new Gen II tail has a larger taillight which is safer. The overall design of the tail is unchanged.
Mitch Gallagher from Reno called me for a 19" rear wheel kit. When I asked what he was doing (because he hadn’t order any other Street Tracker stuff from me) he said he was hooligan racing. I’ve been around for a while (at 74) and been a flat tracker but I hadn’t heard of this hooligan thing. Oh yea, he says, "It’s the rage all over the country."
Turns out in the west and east, track promoters hold ‘run whatcha brung’ classes. It goes off the edge with chopper classes too but who am I to judge. In Mitches case, the track he runs on is an 1/8 mile dirt oval. "On a Sportser" I said! "Oh yea" he says again. He said it is un-serious racing and everyone has fun.
If others of you are doing the same thing send photos and I’ll add you to the nutty list. Thanks Mitch and the rest of you crazies. I wonder if his dog is making an editorial statement.
Don’t use it, ever. Always use premium non-ethanol. Ethanol is junk and causes all kinds of carb, engine, and fiberglass tank problems. Ethanol eats the resin from inside of fiberglass tanks. It dilutes resin into a solution which mixes with your tank’s gas. When the bike sits for any time longer than a month or two, the resin solidifies in your carb and valve components. Carbs are easy to clean but if it gets into the valve seals etc., engine disassembly is needed. Not cheap!
Until 2021 we kept changing coatings to get the best anti-ethanol sealer for our fiberglass tanks. Prior to that date, we used at least 5 different coatings. None of them worked long term despite claims from the chemical makers. The one exception was/is Caswell epoxy coatings. I dropped it because the application process was so lengthy. I now use an anti-ethanol resin with no warranty claims at all.
I get maybe three tanks a year for leaking and surface problems caused by pre-Caswell sealants. Even though they are long past the warranty period, I fix leaks for free but charge for shipping.
If you tank’s surface is lumpy, has grown mumps and looks awful, I have a solution. Send your tank back.
The cost is $295 which is less than half the cost of a new tank. Graphics and return shipping (about $45) are extra. But there is a kicker--you have to promise not to use ethanol fuel. Ever.
If your town offers ethanol free premium fuel, use it even if you have one of my new tanks. Yes, it’s more expensive but it is better for your engine and tank.
If your local stations don’t offer ethanol-free gas by law, you have two options:
Here’s simple fix that's cheaper, long term, than the cost of high octane premium-non-ethanol gas (where it’s available). The ratio is one gallon gas to one cup of water. See my DIY how-to.